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    • Flat or even domed alloy pistons with coated skirts, ground valve pockets and Pro-Seal Rings would get you higher compression Forged crank, racing bearings, H-Beam Rods with ARP2000 Bolts would hold it together
      Serious porting and seats with BIG race valves 46mm Intake and 38mm Exhaust and a lumpy cam. If you can find an adjustable sprocket, it would more than pay for itself in tuning options
        Titanium valve spring with Moly Steel Retainers.    The L has the intake and exhaust on the same side, so you'll need to design some heat shielding for the injectors. Ceramic coating the header is a good start but you might consider wrapping it as well. I've seen guys use U shaped aluminum with adhesive reflective heat shielding wrapping under each intake port and covering the injector on the sides.   If you're going to run this on an ECU I would use LS2 coil packs rather than on plug. Much stronger spark and faster recycle. 
       
    • Well, after almost a month of trade offers (guns, tattoos, and a 5.0 mustang convertible), a ridiculously low cash offer of "$1,000 for everything", various other craigslist riff-raff and robots and a number of guys from around the US wanting the car but not liking the shipping costs, a buyer was found in Oregon and a deal was struck for the car as a rolling shell with all the included parts but none of the extras.   It is going to a member of the US Armed Forces stationed in Japan.  He's been shopping for a project to start on when he comes home in October and his friends came and picked it up for him.   I was beginning to think I was going to have to put the car back in storage at the end of my garage and go back to my original plan of building it myself.  This was not ideal as I had committed on buying the car that was to take this one's place on my property.  In the end, I picked up the new car on Saturday and loaded this one on a trailer the following Wednesday.   Good luck with the build guys!   Bye bye Racecar!  I hope you see the road again.          
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